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Adelle McElveen, Fashion Blogger

April 20, 2017

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Looking at the Bright Side of a Schizo Spring

If I were a New Yorker, I would probably be annoyed by spring in New York. A few days ago it was nearly 80 degrees. Yesterday it between 45-50. Irritating, right? Wrong. Thankfully, I’m not a New Yorker (yet?). I still consider myself a California girl. And for me, this kind of weather is my sweet […]

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March 20, 2017

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Joan Juliet Buck, Former Editor of French Vogue

Joan Juliet Buck headshot

I recently had the opportunity to speak with Joan Juliet Buck, a longtime fashion editor and the only American Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue. The occasion was her new memoir, The Price of Illusion. Quite pleasantly, the interview quickly took on a natural cadence. It felt like she was lounging in a cozy chair by the fireplace, reminiscing about fashion and reflecting on her own sartorial history, and I was merely at sitting at her feet soaking up every word. I hope you enjoy Joan’s wit and wisdom as much as I did.

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Fashionista Lab: I’d like to start by reading a couple of quotes from the book:

“If Nana was shocked by Ricki’s handbag, I could let my clothes take the blame for whatever I chose to do in the future.”

“I bought more clothes. My job was to be seen wearing the latest thing, or better still, the thing no one had yet seen.”

In the later years did you feel like your clothes were taking the blame, was that still your frame of reference?

Joan Juliet Buck: My clothes taking the blame was more when I was wearing my costumes earlier on, when I was running around in distressed suede to look like I had just been in a brawl out west in 1871. Or my fake hippie look or my ‘Chinese factory worker’ look – distracting from me by wearing a costume that was evoking some kind of dramatic moment in history.

But taking the blame, that’s an interesting question. It became that, since I had the job, I had to wear the clothes made by the advertisers. Therefore my clothes were having the relationships with people. The clothes were doing a lot of the work. Which is probably why I got rid of so many of those clothes!

They were like my translators for the fashion world: if I was wearing something that everyone in the fashion world knew and recognized, made, liked, or wanted, I wasn’t wearing something of mine. I talk in the book about my dressing room and how my old clothes from New York seemed like meek, emotional old friends.

(ed note: the full quote is “I bought more clothes. My job was to be seen wearing the latest thing, or better still, the thing no one had yet seen. I owned a profusion of clothes so dense that no job, no event, no memory could stick to anyone thing … My old New York clothes looked meek and emotional among the new things, like old friends with whom I used to laugh and cry.”)

Memoir by former French Vogue editor Joan Juliet Buck[The Vogue clothes] weren’t mine – they were in that I had paid for them. But they were clothes that were not bought because I loved them or really wanted them. I always, from a very young age, would buy fabric in the sale at Liberty’s. Because my father was a producer there was a seamstress from one of the movie studios, Eileen Lake, who would make my clothes. Everything was really cheap. I’d have her copy the old things that I found in flea markets. I had a real relationship with my clothes. I cared about them. They were part of a certain fantasy about how I wanted to feel.

And then when they were business clothes for Vogue, they were for the business of Vogue. And of course the fashion magazines go very fast, the cycles of fashion go very fast. One of the reasons I got rid of so many clothes while I was at Vogue and kept giving them away was, ‘whoops, that was last season. If the Editor-in-Chief of Paris Vogue is wearing last season’s whachamagoogee she’s going to look – oh my God – insane.’ Whereas, for my friends, like my friend the poet, this was like ‘wow, nice warm coat, good-looking jacket, nice trousers.’ My job was to wear the latest thing. This was great because I had a clothing allowance and I had friends who couldn’t afford nice clothes. Fantastic!

There was a point when Hermès showed big country sweaters. Hermès was incredibly expensive, frankly. Even with the clothing allowance I could only afford it in the sale. But when they showed these big big sweaters I went to the cashmere shop in the Burlington arcade, and I bought really big cozy, comfortable sweaters to imitate Hermès. The guy who was in charge of my expenses asked, ‘what are these sweaters you bought in London?’ I said, ‘it’s to look like Hermès.’ There was a real discussion about that. I kept them and I wore them, and God knows I have them still! They’re not fashion, they’re just really good sweaters. Eventually sale time rolled around at Hermès and I was there as soon as I could be. I bought four or five of those really glorious, thick, beautiful cashmere sweaters that looked as if they belonged to a woman who lived in the country and didn’t care about fashion. I was preparing the wardrobe that I wear today, and that’s what I wear today.

I”m very lucky to have a new friend – I’ve only known him for about five years – Zac Posen. I love the way he cuts, I love his imagination, I love his taste. He’s worked out some things that he makes for me that are exactly what I love. It’s obviously not me telling a seamstress what to do. Those are my fancy new clothes. They are wonderful and they’re exactly what I love, the way I love, and the colors I love. and they’re my clothes. It’s not like Zac Posen’s beautiful strapless red carpet dresses – it’s things that look good on me. Things that look like a priest or warrior might wear them. There are evening things like long silk samurai pants that are stiff and beautiful, and look like long skirts but they’re really pants, and they have tight jackets that zip up so you’re dressed in 30 seconds. They’re magnificent. They’re slightly fancy, but also really subtle. That’s perfection. Otherwise, I live upstate so I wear a lot of Polartech hoodies and Heattech undershirts, God bless UNIQLO. In the snow today I’m wearing my three or four year old Jil Sander down coat from UNIQLO.

FL: What is the role of the fashion magazine – how much should people acknowledge and follow the magazine directive vs dressing for yourself?

JJB: We all want to renew ourselves. There’s a moment at the end of winter when your clothes are really tired, sad and saggy. You want something new. Fashion magazines are there to tell you how to be the new you. I think they really do have a role and a purpose. Because I’ve been only a writer the past 5 years, I don’t have the budget to buy fancy new clothes when they come out. I’m incredibly lucky to have Zac Posen as a friend. But I do what I did as a teenager and as a young woman without much money. I poke around the sale racks. I find stuff in the sale racks! The great thing with those sale racks is you take 40 things into your dressing room, and after about two hours you’ve found two or three things that are nice, that you can afford. The fashion magazines are there to tell you which thing to take off the sale rack – or not.

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It was truly a pleasure speaking with Joan. The Price of Illusion is available on Amazon and wherever else you buy books.

February 11, 2017

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Decor Inspo: Blue, Gray & Gold

blue, gray and gold home decor inspiration blue, gray and gold home decor inspiration blue, gray and gold home decor inspiration blue, gray and gold home decor inspiration

1 // 2 // 3 // 4

People are so surprised when I say that I love gray, but I do! Charcoal and slate gray most of all – they’re such beautiful colors. I recently moved into a new place, so I have a renewed interest in home decor. Well, I’m always interested in it, but now, with a different space I’m feeling all sorts of new ideas and possibilities. Right now I’m really feeling the combination of Dark Blue, Gray, and Gold. For me, those are neutral (ish) colors that still allow for fun accents – in complementary colors like orange, pink or purple.

home-decor-blue-gray-gold

Clockwise from top left: 1. Ikea // 2. Ikea // 3. CB2 // 4. Anthropologie // 5. West Elm // 6. Ikea

Of the pieces above I own the rug – one of the first “me” pieces I bought when I moved to New York in 2014. As I slowly build up my new living room, the rest of the pieces are on my wish list! So far in my bedroom I have pink curtains and an oatmeal duvet cover… I’m definitely going to have to figure out an alternative color combination there.

January 22, 2017

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What a Hijabi CoverGirl Means for Representation in Beauty

Custom illustration for the Fashion Studies Journal by Kelly Abeln

 

“In the world of economics, they say “a rising tide lifts all boats.” I believe the same is true in beauty – especially in matters of representation. I don’t necessarily need to see myself in everything as long as I can see different groups represented. Instead of sameness, I want to see all the ways we are different. Which is why, although I’m not Muslim, I was excited and pleased to see a hijabi woman, Nura Afia, as a CoverGirl Ambassador.”

If you follow me on Instagram you may know that in addition to this blog, I work with an amazing group of women on the Fashion Studies Journal. The above is a snippet from a piece I recently wrote, “Why A Hijabi CoverGirl Matters To Me“.

Take a read and let me know what you think!

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